Another enticing as well as fairly-priced offering is the 2009 Albarino, a blend of 91.8% Albarino and 8.2% Loureiro. This crisp, elegant white reveals notes of orange skins, peach oil and good underlying citrus, attractive acidity, excellent purity and a refreshing style. It is good to see Randall Grahm return to his roots. People often forget that despite his clever newsletters and obvious gift at turning a phrase and getting most wine journalists to be seduced by his slick prose, for many years he was, in fact, making industrial quantities (nearly 450,000 cases) of mediocre wines. Thankfully, this appears to be changing. Hopefully Grahm, who is a fascinating character, has decided to do what he did best in the mid-eighties ... make exciting wines from generally unusual and under-rated varietals.Tel. (831) 425-4518
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