A very ripe tropical-fruit nose is complemented beautifully by an intense smoky-toasty element. Pineapple, mango and caramel flavors stand out on the full palate: The smoky note resurfaces later, riding out the persistent finish. This is a sleek, stylish, but very solidly built Chardonnay. It pushes all the right sensory buttons, with big body and great lines, like a ’56 Buick. ——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 91
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