The 2011 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a vivacious, ripe, blackberry and blueberry- scented bouquet with impressive delineation and mineralite. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening, exhibiting superior concentration and suppleness compared to the Clos Saint Denis or Clos de la Roche and seems to revel in the vintage better. It does not quite have the length of a tiptop Bonnes-Mares, but it should age well in the context of the vintage. Drink 2015-2025.
I have been visiting Jeremy and Alec Seysses at Domaine Dujac for several years now, and it is always one of my favorite ports of call. Alec, looking surprisingly chipper for a new dad had taken time off nappy duty to guide me through the 2011s this year. I have to confess that I was concerned by the conspicuous nature of the new oak on both their negociant label wines and the entry Village Crus. I felt that 35% new oak tended to overwhelm the fruit and terroir and occasionally impart drying finishes, which is why my scores are parsimonious here. As I tasted through the range toward the flock of Grand Crus the oak seemed better assimilated, although I would still maintain that the wine is of such quality that the present level of oak risks being superfluous to requirements. All the negociant label wines were bottled before Christmas.
Importers: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724; Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500
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