The 2005 Riesling Le Kottabe is surprisingly spare and cerebral by the standards of this cuvee, its lime zest and sage aromas leading to a bright, firm palate impression of obvious extract, and an impressively long but somewhat austere finish. “We had to pick three times to get good ripeness and arrived at 12.2% natural,” comments Meyer. Le Kottabe is usually for early drinking, but I would revisit this vintage in another year or two.Under the viticultural direction of Jean Meyer’s son-in-law Christopher Ehrhart, this domaine has embraced biodynamic methods. Stylistic sensitivity, concern with cuisine compatibility, a special fondness for that underdog variety Auxerrois, and staggered release of wines continue to distinguish this fine estate, which in recent years has curtailed its negotiant activities. Many of the 2005 wines here were showing considerable reticence, which could represent a phase in their collective evolution. (Due to time constraints, I unfortunately did not have opportunity to taste the complete collective offerings of vintages 2004 and 2005 from this address, but any wine I tasted is referred to in the course of my coverage, even if it is not singled-out for a score.)Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. 847.604.8900
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