The dark ruby-colored Volnay Les Pitures, a superior wine, reveals a floral and raspberry-scented nose as well as an oily-textured, powerful, full-bodied, chewy personality with flavors of blackberries, cassis and coffee. Its admirably long finish reveals a strong tannic backbone that will require a few years of cellaring. Drink it between 2000 and 2006.
Jean Marc Boillot's 1995 reds were produced from yields in the 20-30 hectoliter/hectare range. The 100% destemmed grapes are put through a one week cold maceration, then a high temperature fermentation (between 32-35 degrees centigrade), followed by another maceration at 26-27 degrees centigrade. The vinification lasts three weeks. The wines are then placed in 20-30% new oak barrels (the remaining barrels are 1 and 2 years old). Boillot believes his reds should only be fined in tannic vintages such as '93 and '90. He did not fine his '95s, but they were subjected to a Kieselguhr (diatomaceous earth) filtration.
While this domaine's '95s exhibit an excellent concentration of ripe fruit, they also have a level of dry tannin that is worrisome (hence the question marks). Will the fruit outlive the tannin?
Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.