Rudi Pichler Roter Veltliner, Wachau, Austria

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I last tasted Pichler’s 2007 Roter Veltliner from tank – and given the ridiculously tiny amount of it produced, there are few opportunities to sample it after it leaves the winery. This year, it is a virtually dry Beerenauslese, which Pichler does not know how he will label. Sugared, toasted almond and caramel, rhubarb and peach mingle both on the nose and on a voluminous, oily-rich, yet neither overtly alcoholic nor obviously sweet palate. Pungent nuttiness, tart rhubarb, and peach preserves inform a powerful finish of what is bound to remain an amazing wine. I could also imagine it being a ten year keeper.Pichler’s 2007s differ very little in gross chemistry from his 2006s – including the high alcohol of several Gruner Veltliner – yet they have dramatically different personalities. Pichler compares them with his 1997s, and perhaps time in bottle will more clearly bear out that high praise. Rudi Pichler is a great believer in watchfully letting nature take its course and although some of his 2007s came in with pH levels many growers would consider alarmingly high he gave no thought to adjusting them, and the finished wines bear him out, displaying the vivacity and freshness typical of 2007.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700