Clearly a step in quality above the winery’s regular release. A slight cloudiness suggests an unfiltered wine -- whether or not this is true -- but it has the stuffing of flavor and texture that make it interesting. Pale in color, delicate of body, with intensely spicy, raspberry and tobacco flavors and perky acids. Catch it in its youth for flamboyance and spirit.——S.H.(8/1/2003)—— 88