It is going to be the rare case where a 1996 Napa Chardonnay turns out to be better than its 1995 counterpart. The latter vintage is undoubtedly one of the classic vintages for California Chardonnay, while 1996 is merely good. Beringer's three cuvees of 1996 Chardonnay are all extremely well-made. The 1996 Chardonnay Private Reserve follows the extraordinary 1995 and 1994. Production has doubled to nearly 20,000 cases of this lush, full-bodied wine. The 1996 is more structured than previous vintages, but I do not think it will last any longer. The wine is given a full malolactic fermentation, with 85% of the cuvee aged in new oak casks. The result is a smoky, medium to full-bodied, honeyed Chardonnay with copious quantities of ripe, buttery tropical fruit. The sur lie aging, as well as the stirring of the lees gives this wine a Burgundian-like, smoky, hazelnut complexity. This deep, well-endowed Chardonnay should drink well for 2-3 years. Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735
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