Anne Gros calls her share of this parcel in Clos Vougeot Maupertui—her cousin Michel spells it “Maupertuis.” Such are the complications of Burgundy. But this wine is anything but a confusion: It’s a powerful, beautifully constructed wine, everything in its place—fruit, tannins and smoky wood. This justifies the sometimes questionable place of Clos Vougeot among the Grand Crus. ——R.V.(3/1/2007)—— 95