Bonny Doon continues to be one of the leaders in offering an innovative group of Rhone Valley-inspired wines. I have been an unabashed admirer of their Clos de Gilroy since Randall Grahm began producing it. It has been a gloriously exuberant, deliciously hedonistic wine that would satisfy the masses if it were available in enormous quantities. The 1990 is the lightest of the Clos de Gilroys to date, but it is still gushing with berry fruit, exhibits a soft underbody, and a generally elegant, medium-bodied texture. Drink it over the next six months.
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