A 2004 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett was among the more concentrated and seamless of the numerous Kabinetts presented. Fresh apple and honeydew melon aromas lead to a sappy, rich, yet delicate palate, with faintly tart notes of blackberry, citrus zest, salt, and wet stone lending interest. The sweetness is perfectly judged: supportive of the fruit and conducive to low alcohol, yet never dominating the picture. The finish craftily combines delicacy with grip. This wine, incidentally, comes from a high-elevation parcel nearer to Berkastel both literally and in terroir. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland,?OH; tel. (216) 861-6800.
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