The 2010 Vosne Romanee Aux Brulees is every bit as exciting from bottle as it was from barrel. Today the Brulees is much more open than it was a few months ago, but its potential is the same, which is to say, the wine is simply magnificent. In 2010, the Brulees is pure seduction. Rich, dense, yet light on its feet, the Brulees is marvelously complex, but in the end, it is the sheer texture of the wine that delights the intellectual and hedonistic senses most of all. The seductive, ethereal finish leaves a lasting impression. Tasted next to Beaux Monts, which this parcel is adjacent to, the Brulees is intensely floral and precise, with more of a dark red fruit profile. Readers in search of the 2010s from Leroy will want to put the Brulees at the top of their lists. What a great showing! Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040.
Lalou Bize-Leroy is always among the first growers to bottle, as she was once again in 2010. Therefore, I have chosen to present final, in-bottle reviews of the 2010 reds along with the Domaine Leroy and D’Auvenay 2010 whites. All of the wines came in at or near the top of my barrel scores. Thinking back to the day I tasted the 2010s from barrel in a very empty-looking cellar, I am reminded, that, as elsewhere, the already minuscule quantities of these wines was made even smaller by the mercilessly short crop in 2010. Readers who can find the wines should not hesitate. In this vintage, the Leroy wines are deeply marked by terroir. Although I don’t share all of her views, tasting with Lalou Bize-Leroy is always a fascinating experience, as everything she does is informed by the deepest and most total conviction imaginable. There is no more ardent exponent of the most fundamental of all Burgundian values – the concept of terroir – than Lalou Bize-Leroy.
Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040
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