The 2008 RESERVA “PASSAGEM,” i.e, “the Crossing,” is a traditional blend, mainly Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. Laced with sweet oak up front, this wine has a sexy note to it initially that some will adore, but that is plainly not all it has. The folks from Quinta de la Rosa and Poeira who own this as a joint venture are producing an interesting competitor to their other products here. It won’t remind anyone of the earthy wines that winemaker-owner Jorge Moreira produces for his own label, Poeira, but it is also beautifully structured, even if a touch more flamboyant. The sweet notes that gave this a one dimensional feel up front developed into a better balanced whole with aeration as the wine settled down, showing good acidity and some crisp, focused power, as so many ‘08s seem to do. The tannins here are relatively controlled. With an hour’s air, this begins to show in quite an appealing fashion as the oak began to integrate a bit and the wine showed more structure than it seemed initially to have. Ultimately, this became quite nice. It is likely to hold well in the cellar and still be approachable early. Give it a couple of years to settle down, though, for best results. Drink 2012-2022. This is a joint venture between Quinta de La Rosa and Poeira winemaker Jorge Moreira and the Bergqvist family (that owns La Rosa). The fruit is sourced from the Douro Superior at Quinta das Bandeiras.Importers: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; Vinum Importing, Redmond, Wa.; tel: (206) 621-8843.
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