Normally Ugni Blanc and Colombard grapes are distilled into Cognac or Armagnac, but owner Yves Grassa has chosen to turn these pedestrian varieties into a clean, crisp, dry wine that exudes grapefruit and green-apple characteristics along with a nice smack of herbaceousness. In addition, there are aromatic notes of pine and weighty flavors of mango and banana. Not a long ager, however, as the 2002 version I also tried had lost its steam.——M.S.(11/15/2004)—— 87
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