The estate’s top Lagrein, the 2004 Lagrein Porphyr bursts from the glass with concentrated, sweet dark fruit, licorice and violets in a rich, structured, mineral-driven expression of Lagrein. It offers outstanding depth and delineation in its aromas and flavors, but it also needs a few years of bottle age to shed some of its baby fat and integrate its new French oak. Named after the mineral-rich volcanic rocks that are a prominent feature of the terrain, Terlano’s Porphyr is a reference point for fine Lagrein. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Cantina di Terlano is one of Italy’s top estates, something made all the more remarkable considering it is a cooperative. The entry-level bottlings have been among my favorite house wines for many years. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, they offer much varietal character at reasonable prices. They are also a great introduction for readers who want to learn more about the unique wines of Alto Adige. In addition, the estate produces a set of single-vineyard whites and reds which are reference-point wines for the region. The single-vineyard wines typically spend longer on their lees and are aged partly or wholly in casks. The top-of-the-line selections (in fatter bottles) see a percentage of smaller barrels. The Sauvignon Quarz, Gewurztraminer Lunare and Nova Domus in particular represent some of the most intensely flavored, unique and age-worthy wines to come out of the region.Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (204) 294-4899
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