Enveloping and sweet in its liqueur-like concentration of blackberry, dark cherry, and licorice, the Dugat-Py 2007 Mazis-Chambertin is winsome and seductive to a degree that its ultimately more riveting and vibrant 2008 counterpart cannot equal. An abundance of alluring brown spices; rose petal perfume; vanilla; black pepper pungency; cherry pit piquancy; and black tea smokiness brings haunting complexity to the creamy, caressing palate of this ravishingly long-finishing example of what was possible from its vintage. I would not want to miss out on savoring it over the next half dozen years, but expect that it will keep well for twice that long.
“The world is already full of talk about 2009,” said Bernard Dugat late last winter, “but how about 2008?!” Indeed, for growers as successful with that tricky vintage as was Dugat, its neglect rankles with good reason. At a reported 23-25 hectoliters per hectare, Bernard Dugat’s yields in 2008 were low even by his standards, which he says explains his having harvested everything by October 2. (His 2007 harvest commenced August 30, less unusual in its vintage’s context.) Only a couple of lots from 2008 even reached 13% alcohol, yet there is no question as to their ample ripeness or overall concentration. Dugat remained largely faithful to his routine of total vendange entier. He racked the wines in late winter (after which I tasted them) and bottled them in the course of the spring. (The 2008 Petit Chapelle was still full of post-malo gas in early spring of last year and I was never able to properly assess it. For further details on Bernard Dugat’s approach, see my report in issue 170. Many details concerning his sites can be found there as well as in issue 186.)
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