The 1999 Shiraz Underhill's fabulous aromas of bacon fat, smoke, black cherry liqueur, forest floor, and pepper merit a low 90-point score. In the mouth, however, the flavors do not match the aromatic fireworks. The wine is medium-bodied, soft, light, and short in the finish. It is interesting to note how much lighter and more developed aromatically the 1999 Yarra Yering offerings are than the 1998s. One has to admire this winery's purity of expression, and terroirists will use meaningless words such as "transparency" to describe these wines. Terroir or not, they merit considerable interest.Importer: Rob McDonald, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552
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