Still in barrel this spring, the Prieur 2008 Clos Vougeot features scents of cooked red raspberry, cherry, and tobacco which follow on a palate of juicy brightness and lift more typical for the vintage than the impression left by most of the other Pinots in this 2008 collection. The dark meaty and earthy aspects of the site are little in evidence but hints of toasted nuts, brown spices, and herbs add interest to a persistent finish. This will merit at least 12-15 years of cellaring.
Martin Prieur, oenologist Nadine Gublin, and their team hung tight in the 2008 vintage and ended up harvesting very ripe-tasting Pinots, at the price of yields dramatically reduced by the necessary selection (to the extent hail and green harvest had not already cut them back). As a group, these 2008s tended toward a not entirely felicitous alliance of tannic abrasion and toasty, smoky, ultimately slightly palate-drying new wood, although many of the wines showed more harmoniously when I re-tasted them in April than they had the month prior, and I have accordingly favored my later impressions in the notes that follow. It may well be true by some measure – as Gublin opined – that the 2008s here are more consistently ripe than were the 2006s, but for now I find more depth, harmony, and charm in the latter. Their 2007s – which the domaine began picking already on August 30 – are not currently displaying much of the charm they showed very early on, and while the estate’s staff hope is that this will be regained (and certainly the wines have “structure” in the sense of tannin), I continue to be skeptical in general about deferring those pleasures that this vintage offers. In many vineyards, incidentally, 2008 represented the third consecutive vintage in which Prieur had harvested scarcely more than 20 hectoliters per hectare.
Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700
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