4 An extraordinary Chardonnay whose complicated richness is balanced with tight acidity and a firm grounding of stony minerals. Brings to mind a great Chablis, with its zesty tang followed by elaborate layers of tropical fruits and pears. Utterly delicious, wildly appealing, a wine that will develop bottle interest over the next six years. Only 97 cases were produced. ——S.H.(3/1/2011)—— 95
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