Alsatians think 1995 is a super year for Tokay-Pinot Gris. Certainly Mann's cuvees are strong efforts, yet relatively backward, with surprisingly high acidity, as well as intense, concentrated personalities. The 1995 Tokay-Pinot Gris Hengst (25 cases available for America) is made from extremely old vines. It has lofty alcohol (13.8%) as well as high residual sugar (30 grams per liter), and an equally impressive acid level. The Hengst may be the most controversial of Mann's 1995s. A pronounced vegetable, honeyed richness caught me off guard. This slightly bizarre wine is totally unformed, and nearly impossible to evaluate, but there is no doubting its huge richness, high glycerin, and massive extract, all buttressed by amazingly tart acid levels. This wine will unquestionably last for 15-20 years, but whether all its components mesh together remains unanswered. It is potentially outstanding, yet somewhat kinky and unconventional.I do not think anyone who follows the underrated white wines of Alsace would argue that Albert Mann is one of that beautiful region's brightest stars. His 1995s are exceptionally successful, especially his cuvees of Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and Tokay-Pinot Gris.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 932-2745
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