Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Hengst Gewurztraminer, Alsace Grand Cru, France

鴻布列什酒莊亨斯特園瓊瑤漿白葡萄酒

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”For me, Gewurztraminer is a powerful wine,:” says Olivier Humbrecht, “and 2007 is well-adapted to this grape,” a comment one might want to ponder while tasting his 2007 Gewurztraminer Hengst with its 15.8% alcohol (considerably less, granted, than the 2005) and still 26 grams of residual sugar. Asked why he harvested this almost at the end, Humbrecht replied “It was just developing nicely; beautiful botrytis; and it was the first time in the history of the estate when we had the possibility to think ‘let’s maybe try to do selections in the Hengst for once,’ which we also did.” Smoked meat, brown spices, and resinous herbs play the leading roles here right from the start; and the aromatic pungency translates into a voluminous and impressively expansive as well as gripping palate. There’s a certain amount of heat here, but the alcohol also accentuates the wine’s low-toned, bitter herbal and smoky character. And my gums got numb, even with the sizzling intensity of cinnamon stick and ginger in the finish. Whether this will ever refine itself I won’t speculate, but if you cellar it do so warily. ”After the experience of 2003,” remarks Olivier Humbrecht with an eye to his 2007s, “I’m never going to complain about having and extra gram or two of acidity.” In fact, Humbrecht considers 2007 ideal in nearly every respect, having permitted the grower the luxury of picking under optimum conditions for each grape variety and style. The fruit was completely healthy, insists Humbrecht, “you could walk through the vineyards for half an hour and fine one spoiled berry,” … except, of course, where the rot was noble! This year’s generally dry-tasting, relatively low-alcohol, high acid, high-extract Rieslings are not always the most youthfully approachable or winsome in style, but the best are profound; whereas Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer ran to extremities of potential alcohol, even though the harvest was finished before mid-October. Far fewer wines went through malo-lactic transformation here from 2007 than usual – the pHs were often so low they proved inhospitable to the necessary bacteria. As for 2006, it’s clear that this is a year to test the meddle of any grower, and it is therefore not surprising that Zind-Humbrecht was among the estates to demonstrate that excellence and even excitement were not ruled out by the weather. Furthermore, he arrived at an average 2006 yield virtually identical to that of 2005. “Of course,” asserts Humbrecht, “quality in 2006 depended on how you handle your vineyards and your vines the whole year through. It was a vintage where, if you made a mistake in the vineyards, you got slapped pretty hard at harvest time, unlike 2007 where if you made a mistake, nature was forgiving.” The completion of fermentations in 2007 was spread over even more months than usual, often with late bottling; frequently with no racking; and my notes are based both on tastings from bottle early this year (sometimes referencing the wine’s performance from cask) and in a few instances solely on tastings from cask. Two 2007 Pinot Gris “Trie Speciale” – from Clos Windsbuhl and Clos Jebsal – were not even wine yet last I visited, and will in any case not be released for at least another year.Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724

This is undeniably a concentrated wine offering a complex set of very appealing aromas and flavors (singed grapefruit peel, honey, caramel). However, it is a bit out of balance at 15.5% alcohol and finishes shorter than one has a right to expect in this triple-digit price range. It’s starting to show some development and will probably not improve, so best to drink up soon. ——J.R.(10/1/2010)—— 89