The 2009 Barbera d’Alba Bricco dei Merli bursts from the glass with a rush of dark red fruit, flowers and spices. It shows fabulous mid-palate juiciness in a supple, inviting style that is immensely appealing. Sweet floral notes reappear on the finish. This is first class juice all the way. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.
Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno continue to do fabulous work. Cogno is one of the very finest estates in Piedmont, yet somehow remains under the radar. Every wine I tasted this year was brilliant, but the Baroli in particular are magnificent. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, which means they need bottle age, even at the entry-level. Native yeasts, lengthy submerged-cap macerations, and a reliance on large, neutral oak casks for the top Baroli are the rule.
Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200