Domaine Ostertag Gewurztraminer Fronholz Vendanges Tardives, Alsace, France

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Candied citrus peel, glazed apricot, rose petal, and smoky black tea in the nose of Ostertag’s 2009 Gewurztraminer Fronholz Vendange Tardive lead into a gentle, glycerin-rich palate whose sweetness seems to have been excessively accentuated by low acidity, and perhaps also relatively low dry extract. Overripe musk melon, apricot preserves, and orange marmalade in the finish want for some sense of cut or counterpoint; and even though this is under 13% in alcohol – not to mention already more than sweet enough – I detect a hint of heat. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524