The attractive 1998 Napa Chardonnay (2,200 cases) is made from fragrant clones of this varietal. Aged in two-thirds new French oak, it offers a candy, lemon drop-scented nose with orange rind and subtle smoke. Ripe, with hefty alcohol (14.4%), it possesses tangy acidity, medium body, and fine length. In late October, it was still youthful and unevolved. It should drink well for 3-4 years. Tel. (707) 963-4142; Fax (707) 963-9713