Two and half weeks after harvesting his Piri bottling, Nigl returned to pick the 2007 Gruner Veltliner Privat. Bittersweet floral perfume and herbal concentrate in the nose lead to a (for this site) surprisingly low-toned palate of malt, nut oils, honey, and pan drippings. Yet there is a cool side to this soothing, 14% alcohol Veltliner, which finishes with memorable meaty, resinous, and honeyed depth. What a contrast Nigl's two pickings from the Piri make this year. Why not try setting some of this one aside, too, for up to a decade? After Martin Nigl's decidedly mixed results in 2006 - especially a series of Rieslings with high alcohol and heat - it was a pleasure to taste a more typical vintage for him in 2007, where even the richest wines (and there are some sumptuous beauties) are refined and full of intricacy and intrigue. Nigl assures me that to achieve this required more selectivity than in either of the two previous vintages. This year's collection offers in particular a magnificent example of Gruner Veltliner's versatility and ability to make complete, evocative statements across a range of weight classes. What's more, few wines can beat Nigl's 2007 Gruner Veltliner for value.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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