Weingut Nigl Privat Reserve Gruner Veltliner, Kremstal, Austria

尼玖私人珍藏綠維特利納白葡萄酒

點擊次數：5602

Nigl says there was some desiccation but no problematic botrytis in the grapes for his 2006 Gruner Veltliner Privat, even though they were picked November 15, several days after the region’s first significant (and unusually early) snowfall. A veritable liqueur of Gruner Veltliner, this is redolent of over-ripe peaches, honey, marzipan, sweet pea, and ester-filled, Chartreuse-like floral and herbal essences. Creamy in texture, its 15.5% alcohol is most evident in high glycerin and a sense of sweetness. With these grapes from the Piri, Nigl was willing to permit overnight skin contact prior to fermentation in order to enhance the sense of extract and convey structure. A bitter-sweet, piquantly nutty depth in the finish helps offset the impression of sheer ripeness, and there is – for now at least – only marginal heat. He thinks the wine will slim down further as it matures and that its extract will keep the alcohol at bay. It will certainly be fascinating to follow the wine, watchfully, and meantime it puts on a truly impressive show.Martin Nigl’s tactical decision – in the face of what he perceived as stubborn raw material, and based on his experiences in 2003 – was to let his 2006 grapes hang. The high-extract legacy of a well-watered August, he reasoned, would help buffer high alcohol. With Gruner Veltliner, this strategy led to unusual richness in the ostensibly lower echelons and exceptional opulence (to which some tasters may take exception) at the upper end of the collection. With Riesling, the results are unusual and controversial, to say the least. Incidentally, Nigl has converted 100% to screw-cap bottling. He says that for this reason he uses a lower dosage of sulfur, with the byproduct that there is little or no post-bottling trauma.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300