Owner/wine-maker Steve Kistler, admirably supported by his omnipresent sidekick, Mark Bixler, continues to make wines of extraordinary richness and complexity. Their Chardonnay production has risen to nearly 18,000 cases, all of it bottled without fining or filtration. I joked with Kistler and Bixler after tasting through the remarkable set of nine Sonoma Chardonnays that while it would take me five days of tasting in Burgundy to find this many great Chardonnays, it took me less than two hours at Kistler Vineyards, an observation that demonstrates just what heights California vintners are now achieving. Kistler is still in the process of releasing their 1993s. Most of the 1994s will be released in 1996 with a handful of them released in 1997. This high quality winery is doing everything right, which is reflected in the consistency, ageworthiness, and brilliance of these wines.
Kistler may be making California's most sensational Pinot Noirs. The three 1994 Pinot Noir offerings, lamentably scheduled for release in 1997 (that's not a typo), are persuasive wines, especially the estate Pinot Noir and the exceptional Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast.. The 1994 Pinot Noir Estate Cuvee Catherine exhibits a dense color, and gorgeous wild berry aromas ranging from cherries to raspberries. Rich and full-bodied, with layers of creamy fruit and a super texture, this superb Pinot Noir should drink well young yet keep for 7-8 years. All three of these Pinot Noirs were bottled without fining or filtration. Kistler is HOT! Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709
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