The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is a particular success, offering up aromas of plums, dark berries, smoked meats, hoisin and spices, followed by a full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping palate that's deep and textural, its huge reserves of tannin largely concealed by its generous core of fruit. While that structure imposes itself on the finish, the maturity of the vintage has tempered some of this site's proclivity to youthful reserve—at least for now.
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