Weingut Prager Smaragd Riesling, Wachau, Austria

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In what looks to become a sign of the times, the 2006 Riesling Smaragd Klaus is almost Auslese-like in its richness (even at over 14% alcohol). But there is an underlying sense of stony minerality and subtle fruit pit bitterness that help check any suggestion of sweetness. The sense of sheer density and of minerality here are formidable, but there is more refinement and vivacity than is exhibited by most of the Smaragd bottlings of Riesling here today. Toasted nuts, lemon oil, honey, peach preserves inform a powerful but not at all warm finish. Plan on following this for 7-9 years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

This is pure mineral, beautifully structured with intensely perfumed white currant flavors. The fruit is ripe and elegant featuring flavors of pears, a shot of lime and an overall acidity. Could age for years.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 95