The 2006 Pinot Noir Estate Reserve reflects the very different conditions provided by this nearly problem-free vintage. Darker in color, more brooding aromatically, and rounder and richer on the palate, this forward, relatively easy-going effort can be enjoyed now but hides enough structure to evolve for several years.A visit to The Eyrie Vineyards where Jason Lett presides is like getting a history lesson in how wine used to be made (and some might say still should be made). From the grape growing through the elevage, this is an artisanal, non-interventionist, unique operation that continues to turn out some of the most fascinating wines on the planet. Knowing Eyrie Pinot Noir’s propensity for longevity, my drinking windows are likely to seem conservative a decade from now.Tel. (503) 472-6315; www.eyrievineyards.com
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