Two years in barrels, half of them new, have done nothing to dry out this succulent product of old vines on the edge of the Bisamberg, nor does 14.5% alcohol generate any heat. (“The first year you sometimes notice the alcohol in this bottling,” remarked Wieninger, “but then it integrates.”) A suggestively sweet as well as smoky meld of Persian melon with deeply toasted pecan and hickory informs a palate of custardy richness, mouthcoating and broad but not at all heavy. Savory finishing suggestions of herbs and veal stock put me in mind of a few of this estate’s best Grüner Veltliners.
粵公網安備 44030502006249號