Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany

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From Richter’s superb and distinctive Goldwingert parcel, high above several of the top vineyards of Bernkastel, his 2006 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese suggests spiritous, slightly volatile notes in its nose of peach and black currant, baked apple and papaya. A rather plush and creamy palate with underlying nut oils, is nonetheless underlain by palpable extract, and the finish is infectiously juicy and lingering. This should last for two decades. “My minmum must weight was 100,” says Dirk Richter, almost in tones of exasperation, rendering it hard to craft lighter-weight wines, particularly at the restrained levels of residual sugar that usually characterize his estate. Some of Richter’s dry-tasting wines had difficulty coming to terms with their alcohol, and as he was the first to admit, in 2006 this could happen even with “feinherb” wines of more than 15 grams residual sugar. He wasn’t able to get his full picking crew (mostly Poles) in place until October 10, and many of this years wines appeared to struggle with the rougher aspects of botrytis and/or the effects of having tried to remove their taint from the musts. “We ended up just leaving the grapes hanging in some parcels,” says this veteran, “which is something I have never experienced.” (Incidentally, Richter and his importer appear to have collaborated in lowering his prices in the U.S. market for this vintage, despite the weak dollar.)Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800