Georg Breuer Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Trocken

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Formidable, almost forbidding concentration is once again the watchword with Breuer’s 2007 Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling trocken, a wine that seems to reflect its slate origins in a stone-licking way, and that projects lemon and under-ripe pear in a decidedly severe, significantly bitter, and stony, if gripping finish. What will emerge here in a few years time, I am not confident to predict. I fear that – at least for some years to come – this might grow increasingly lean and ornery rather, even if after a decade it becomes more ingratiating. Certainly if one intends to serve any of these dry Breuer 2007s in their youth, the cuisine needs to be chosen with care and itself – dare I say? – sufficiently lean. I was extremely curious to see how the normally early-harvesting Heinrich Breuer and Hermann Schmoranz would approach this vintage in which the overwhelming consensus among growers was that the fruit must – despite its remarkable head start – hang late. But by the time I tasted their collection, it was evident that Rudesheim’s slopes were – depending on one’s view – blessed or cursed by having ripened much earlier and more precipitately than nearly any other German Riesling vineyards. That said, the always lean style of dry Breuer Rieslings shaded a bit too far into the green spectrum in some of this year’s renditions, and no members of this collection (including the one bearing that word on its label!) make concessions to charm. The levels of acidity truly are without precedent in the modern history of the estate (2004 came closest in that regard), levels more appropriate to the formidable single-vineyard nobly sweet wines that Breuer has crafted, and which – despite none exceeding 300 half bottles in production – will be sold half in 2009 (alongside the dry single-vineyard wines) and half at some future date. Breuer, incidentally, avows that it is deceptive to point to increasingly early harvests at his or any other top address solely as indications of climate change, because at least for most of the late 20th century, he insists, yields were much higher, thus demanding longer hang-time.Imported by Classical Wines, Seattle WA 206 547 0255