Ripe pear and quince scent the 2008 Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett, which then comes to the palate subtly creamy; laced with savory salinity; and with delicacy and vivacity (at 8.5% alcohol) that belie this site's being farther downstream and hence warmer than Donnhoff's others. Luscious pear nectar is transparent to saline and crystalline notes and alluringly tinged with red berries and vanilla. I'm still in training when it comes to Kreuznach - give me ten years, jokes Donnhoff, for whom 2008 is his third vintage with this site. But in fact not only does this wine express complete self-confidence, its 2007 predecessor (bottled as Spatlese) was one of the stand-outs in its collection. Even though I received a lot of praise for last year's Krotenpfuhl Spatlese, remarks its author, -this Kabinett is really lovely, and I'm thinking I don't need to wait so long to pick in this site in order to best reflect its talent for residually sweet Riesling. The acids were too green at that point to have made a good trocken wine. Anyway, I practically only have Riesling; I need three or four weeks and can't pick all of my vineyards in a day, so there has to be some place to begin, and the question is, -where will the grapes be most beautiful at that point? Enjoy this classic Kabinett over the next 12-15 years.
It was back to the roots this year, announced a beaming Helmut Donnhoff when I arrived to taste his 2008s. He harvested in the last week of October and first half of November during which time he characterized the weather as cool and stable. I can guarantee you, he added, that we didn't for a single day have muddy boots.
Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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