The 2004 Branco Ribatejo (Falcoaria) is a fine deal. I wonder how many people drinking this blind would think it was the equivalent of a $25 California Chardonnay, or even a modest white Burg. It is, however, made from Fernao Pires, also known as Maria Gomes in other regions. Bright and oaky, laced with vanilla overtones, this has an extremely respectable and lingering finish for the price range, decent mid-palate weight and some liveliness. Oak-a-phobes will not be as pleased, as there is a considerable up front hit, but there is more to this wine than that, and with air the oak integrates fairly well. It is not overbearing. It shows little bits of spice, nice aromatics, and balance, too. This was sourced from 25-year-old vines, and aged in French oak only. The longer I had this open, the more I liked it. Drink this on the young side, although it may hold longer. Drink now-2010. This family-owned estate has been in the same hands for some two centuries. It seems very modern, though, as witnessed by its new “Cork Grove” line, which will remind people very much of New World wine.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155
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