The maiden 2011 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavieres, which comes from a recently acquired 0.35- to 0.4-hectare parcel, is initially laconic on the nose, wearing its tie a little tight before loosening it and deigning you with well-defined red fruit that seems more gourmand than its peers. The palate is very well-balanced with a crisp taut opening, delivering tart red fruit on the entry. Both middle and finish are tightly knit and relatively taciturn at the moment and I feel that compared to Pavelots fellow 2011s, it is just missing some persistency. This is certainly one that deserves two or three years in the cellar. Drink 2015-2023.
The road resurfacing on the boiling hot Tuesday afternoon of my visit almost thwarted me from reaching Domaine Jean-Marc and Hugues Pavelot (God only knows how the tar could have actually melted in those temperatures.) It was a relief to descend into the cool cellars with Hugues Pavelot who works alongside his father. He seemed guarded at first, perhaps more laconic than other young winemakers that I meet, but relaxed and opened up once we began discussing his wines. This has been a go-to address for great Savigny-les-Beaune for a number of years, demonstrating the heights that can be achieved and their 2011s are definitely worth seeking out. There is a simple approach with prudent use of oak that hovers between 15 and 30% new wood.
Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70
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