6 An awesome wine. So delicious and complex now in wild cherry, raspberry, Dr. Pepper cola, bacon and smoky sandalwood flavors, brightened with crisp acidity and totally dry despite the fruitiness. But you’ll also find a firm tannic structure that gives it some astringency. It’s the kind of Pinot Noir that California does at its best, drinkable now for sheer beauty, but easily capable of a decade of aging.——S.H.(8/1/2011)—— 96