From the southern, cooler part of the valley, but on a sunny ridge above the fog, a fascinating study in contrasts. It has brilliantly crisp, citrusy acidity, but is a fat, fleshy wine, with mouthwatering flavors of black cherries, cola, mocha and gingersnap. The scour of dusty tannins on the finish suggests this wine will hold for several years.——S.H.(6/1/2004)—— 92