Freie Weingaertner Wachau Gruner Veltliner Reserve Axpoint

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As usual, the word -reserve- in the Freie Weingartner's 2007 Gruner Veltliner Reserve Axpoint signifies that the wine stuck in fermentation. The wine fermented until early February, which is late for this address. But at a mere ten grams of residual sugar, you can safely treat it as a dry Smaragd. Pungent lemon zest, honey, and dusty hints of botrytis lend this a rather 1998-like aura that will spell -danger- to some experienced tasters. An oily texture and low-toned coffee-mocha in a faintly warm finish enhance that impression. Still, the effect here is quite fascinating. Just plan to enjoy it over the next 12-18 months rather than risk an unpleasant evolution of the botrytis. Roman Horvath and Heinz Frischengruber are on a roll now, so one wants to root for their retaining the marvelous value that has distinguished Freie Weingartner wines in their best periods, because top-flight Wachau wines at prices like theirs are scarcely available anywhere else. Yields on Gruner Veltliner in 2007 were a bit high for optimal, Frischengruber opines, but then, the yields in Riesling obviously came at the expense of botrytis. And it goes without saying that selectivity is a challenge in coop situations, even though one which the team here has previously proven themselves capable of meeting. Nearly 40% of production was picked as Steinfeder, a quality grade all but missing last year, and whose volume in this vintage permitted enhanced attention to the fruit that remained for Federspiel and Smaragd. All of the wines reviewed below are bottled under the -Domane Wachau- label.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700.