Weingut Emmerich Knoll Riesling Auslese, Wachau, Austria

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A 2005 Riesling Auslese – like its Veltliner counterpart collected from a wide range of vineyards – smells of orange blossom, honey, gooseberry jam, and candied lemon. In the mouth this offers a gooseberry jam-like counterpoint of ripeness and tartness, which gives the juicy, invigorating finish some real cut. “Even under the description ‘sweet wine’ I imagine something you can drink a second glass of,” says Knoll, and that is certainly the case here. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700