The 2008 Charmes-Chambertin is virtually impenetrable. This is a decidedly cool, inward Charmes in need of considerable time in bottle. It couldn’t be more different than the subtle, expressive 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. Bernard Dugat farms 10 hectares of vineyards, 6.5 of which he and his family own outright. The Dugat-Py wines are breathtaking for their richness and depth. Despite their sheer concentration, the wines retain tons of vineyard and vintage character. These are some of the most viscerally thrilling, exciting wines I tasted on my recent trip through Burgundy. The only 2009 I wasn’t able to taste was the Pommard, which had been bottled just prior to my visit.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800