The 1993 Gewurztraminer Goldert (15.3% alcohol) exhibits moderate sweetness, with a sweet/sour character in the flavors, and a full-bodied, massively long, dry finish that lasts for nearly 45 seconds. This wine is controversial, pushing the limits of conventional Gewurztraminer aromatics and flavors. It should drink well for 4-6 years.Zind-Humbrecht's Gewurztraminers are all light to medium gold-colored, with various degrees of botrytis in evidence. All were fermented totally dry. These are flamboyant, bold, alcoholic (ranging from 13.5% to 15%) wines that are sure to provide a delicious wake-up call to anyone who may be falling asleep at the table.The 1992 and 1993 wines reviewed in this issue are the wines of a genius. Importers: Wine Markets International, Inc., Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 525-1524
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