Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Auslese, Nahe, Germany

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The 2013 Dorsheimer Pitterm?nnchen Riesling Auslese is quite offensive on the nose and does not hesitate to tell you where it is coming from. The aromas are rather tropical, displaying pineapple flavors along with slatey tones. Deliciously piquant and mineral on the palate this is a filigreed and delicate wine of great elegance and finesse. Its finish is piquant and salty and, thus, its sweetness well hidden in the piquant and mineral nature of this great Auslese.

Made with a higher proportion of Botrytis the 2012 Dorsheimer Pitterm?nnchen Riesling Auslese is more intense on the nose displaying acacia honey and almonds and rather tropical aromas, but this wine lacks the precision and purity of the Goldloch Auslese. On the palate it is sweet, elegant and intense in its tropical aromas with pineapples in front. This is a very juicy and sensual Auslese which seems to be sweeter than the Goldloch but this is mainly because it is less piquant and racy.

From a parcel singled out early on for its likely suitability to this genre (and lack of suitability for Grosses Gewachs), the Diels’ 2011 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Auslese is memorably redolent of caraway, rose petal and smoky black tea and, as were its Kabinett and Spatlese counterparts, here allied on a creamy yet refreshingly fluid palate to overripe Persian and musk melons as well as Rainier cherry. Hints of chamomile and sassafras add to a striking sense of inner-mouth perfume and persist into a levitating, soaring finish. Notions of nut paste, vanilla, candied rose petal, and salted caramel emphasize the confectionary side to this beauty while conveying saliva-inducing allure. Look for at least 25 years of mouthwatering temptation. Caroline Diel is now the mother of two, but shows every intention and indication of personally staying on top of her estate’s viticulture. In collaboration with long-time cellarmaster Christoph Friedrich, she is both perpetuating and further refining the styles of wine that have come to characterize and enhance the long-standing reputation of Schlossgut Diel. Picking began in the last week of September and most of the top Rieslings were harvested already in the first week of October, by which point there was a significant amount of botrytis, happily largely noble, most of it picked-out in parallel with the fruit for the Grosse Gewachse. Wisely, I think – as heaven knows they have an austere side as is – the Diels elected for the sake of moderating alcohol to leave a bit more residual sugar behind this year than usual in their Grosse Gewachse. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

From largely healthy fruit, the Diel 2010 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Auslese is as delicate and buoyant as the corresponding Spatlese, mingling lush pink grapefruit and Rainier cherry, with mint, brown spices, and citrus pip serving for complex and delectable counterpoint. Wafting yet glycerin-rich and expansive, this finishes with seemingly incandescent intensity, the faintest suggestion of a honeyed glaze pointing toward its share of ennobled berries. Look for 20-25 years of delight. While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Saline, truffly, musky aromas in the Diel 2009 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Auslese suggest an intriguing alliance of botrytis and mineral elements that puts me in mind a bit of Jurancon. Pear nectar, quince preserves, and candied lemon further inform the delicate, creamily-textured palate of this almost cloud- and watercolor-like, 7.5% alcohol elixir. At once transparent and with gently-rounded edges, it is likely to fascinate and seduce for at least the next 25 years. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300