Quinta do Feital Dorado Alvarinho, Vinho Verde, Portugal

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The 2007 ALVARINHO SUPERIOR DORADO is 100% Alvarinho. This is a wine that shows the evolution of modern Vinho Verde from a light, bright, often overly acidic wine with low alcohol to something that seems more like a mid-level white, well balanced, with good depth and 13% alcohol. It is still unoaked. This is surprisingly laid back and relatively fat for the region with a gripping finish that delivers good fruit flavor to the palate. It does not have the piercing acidity one often sees in Vinho Verde, but it has an extra layer or two of depth over the ’08 Auratus reviewed this issue. Some think many Vinhos Verdes need better integration of acidity and fruit; others thrill to those piercing bursts of acidity. This 2007 plays more to the former group, although it is certainly still bright and refreshing. The ’08 Auratus, reviewed this issue, comes closer to the bright and light style, although it isn’t so light either (12.5% alcohol), compared to old, simple Vinho Verde styles. This was tasted in Portugal and in the USA. In the few short months separating the two tastings, this Dorado Superior rounded into form nicely, given the steely demeanor I saw in Portugal. This is pricey for Vinho Verde, but it is a very fine and very different face of Vinho Verde, and it continues to drink well as it warms up, showing better fruit flavor all the while. Drink now-2011. Importer: Vieux Vins, Inc., d/b/a The Rare Wine Company, Vineburg, Ca.; tel: (707) 996-4484

The 2005 ALVARINHO SUPERIOR DORADO follows the fine 2004. It seems to me that the ’05 is a bit lighter, but it is perky, bright and succulent, with a penetrating and lingering finish. The finish, in fact, is the best part of this wine, the fruit being driven into the palate by the acidity, and lingering. This wine remains fresh, even though 1/3rd of the barrels went through maloactic. That gives it just hint of roundness, but the wine remains crisp and lively. There was no oak used. Drink now-2010. Genial Marcial Dorado is in fact Spanish, but has chosen to cast his lot on the Portuguese side of the border. He is one of the producers making a mark for Vinho Verde these days and helping to transform its image.Importer: Vieux Vins, Inc., d/b/a The Rare Wine Company, Vineburg, Ca.; tel: (707) 996-4484.