Quinta do Casal Branco Reserva (Falcoaria)

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The 2007 RESERVA (FALCOARIA), is a blend of old (80+ years) vines Castelao (55%),? Alicante Bouschet (22%), Cabernet Sauvignon (18%), Touriga Nacional (2.5%) and Petit Verdot (2.5%). It opens lush and sweet, too marked by oak and vanilla on the nose and palate. It did steadily grow on me as it aired out, largely because it has some backbone and showed some capacity for its parts to come together. It definitely has a certain sexy demeanor that will win it fans for friendly drinking, but it has an upside, too, likely showing better in a year or two. Oak-a-phobes might wish to look elsewhere, particularly now, but it should come together and show better balance with a year or so of cellaring. Drink now-2017. Casal Branco has a lot of brands, which are often bewildering. Some seem largely importer-driven, with Vino Cava’s imports of Capoeira and Quartilho, in particular. If you are comparing, the Capoeira white is 90% Fernao Pires, with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, a blend for the importer (similar, however, to Casal Branco’s Terra de Lobos branco) , while the ’09 “normal” Branco just carrying the Casal Branco label with no other branding, also reviewed this issue, is 100% Fernao Pires. That normal Casal Branco white, however, to continue the confusion, is similar to the Quartilho white (with the big “Q” on the label), close enough to be called the same by one of the importers, also 100% Fernao Pires and unoaked. On the other hand, the Quartilho red, reviewed in the past, is different than the normal Casal Branco red, as the Quartilho does not contain any international grapes. If it is hard to keep up with the branding, one bottom line is that Casal Branco’s wines are usually very fine values.Importer: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415; for the Falcoaria and Casal Branco labels only: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155;

The 2004 RESERVA FALCOARIA, a blend of Trincadeira and Castelao, has come along nicely since I saw it last. The oak is most noticeable now for its role in rounding off the edges, but the fruit has asserted itself. The wine has also shaken off its baby fat and developed a bit of character, including an earthy nose. The tannins have integrated nicely into the whole, while continuing to provide support for the wine. This seems a bit fuller than the regular -04 Tinto reviewed this issue, but there isn't really a whole lot to choose from between them. The regular Tinto is a bit fresher and brighter; the Reserva a bit tighter, with a slightly fuller feel. Drink now-2013. The wines at this estate fall largely into the value category. The whites, in particular, can be good deals that outperform their modest price class.Importer: For all wines except Quartilho and Capoeira brands: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155; for Quartilho and Capoeira wines only: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415