Weingut Pfeffingen Estate Riesling Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

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The Eymaels’ 2009 Riesling trocken – largely from the Nussriegel vineyard – is brightly lemony, invigoratingly saline, and displays hints of underlying pumpkin. A hint of orange rind extends its finish. A glossy texture and welcome, palpable sense of extract keep the acidity here from becoming piquing. I would plan on enjoying this over the next 2-3 years, finding its relative sense of levity and sheer refreshment more than sufficient reasons to prefer it over some of its more ambitious dry siblings. Jan Eymael elected to perform significant leaf-removal in order to permit his crop – especially the Scheurebe – to hang free, with the result, he explained, “that botrytis never really could establish itself” and the range of nobly sweet Scheurebe one generally looks forward to at this address is absent from 2009. Total acid levels are moderate this year, but the low pH levels in the grapes led Eymael to give his dry wines longer skin contact than usual to help buffer them. “Bear in mind that we’re one of the warmest spots in the Pfalz,” notes Eymael in connection with this year’s early, September 28, commencement of his Riesling harvest, though picking continued for nearly three weeks.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463

The Eymaels’ 2008 Riesling trocken – largely from the Nussriegel vineyard – was de-acidified, unlike their Pradikat wines of this vintage, but remains more than bright and juicy enough. Heliotrope, orange blossom, and sage in the nose lead to a bright, firm, sappy, well-stuffed palate expression of fresh citrus and under-ripe peach wreathed in herbs and flowers. This fine value should prove versatile over at least the next 3-4 years. It threatened to become another 2006, said Jan Eymael of the mid-September, 2008 rain, but even in the warmest parts of the Pfalz the weather stayed relatively cool, and he did not pick the first Rieslings until September 30, then continuing off and on for three weeks. The later it got, the better the grapes became, comments Eymael. Another month on the vine allowed for the November 18 picking of two magnificent nobly sweet Scheureben.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463

Jan Eymael has crafted yet another satisfying entry-level 2007 Riesling dry generous in its aromas and flavors of peaches, musk, orange zest, and smoked meats. With a sense of breadth and stuffing one would not find in Riesling from further north in Germany, as well as a chalky underlying character that is frequently associated with Ungstein’s soils, I would plan to enjoy this over the next 12-18 months.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463

This wine shows tremendous minerality for a wine from a mix of parcels. Almost smoky, saline mineral aromas combine with crisp, citrusy fruit to typify the Pfalz dry Riesling style. Picks up hints of orange and clove on the finish, with a suggestion of citrus pith.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 89

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