The Eymaels’ 2009 Scheurebe Spatlese smells of candied cassis and pink grapefruit, with overripe Persian melon joining their sugar-backed proxies on a luscious though confectionary palate. Hints of herbal and grapefruit rind pungency as well as a streak of salt manage to convey some stimulation to the juicy if prominently sweet finish. This should perform well for 3-4 years, but I don’t conceive it as having the structure or sap for real stamina. Jan Eymael elected to perform significant leaf-removal in order to permit his crop – especially the Scheurebe – to hang free, with the result, he explained, “that botrytis never really could establish itself” and the range of nobly sweet Scheurebe one generally looks forward to at this address is absent from 2009. Total acid levels are moderate this year, but the low pH levels in the grapes led Eymael to give his dry wines longer skin contact than usual to help buffer them. “Bear in mind that we’re one of the warmest spots in the Pfalz,” notes Eymael in connection with this year’s early, September 28, commencement of his Riesling harvest, though picking continued for nearly three weeks.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463
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