The 2004 Chardonnay “Grand Vintage” offers aromas of apricot, apricot kernel, and resin. In the mouth it is tight and relatively inexpressive from recent bottling but with suggestions of incipient creaminess and with a better fit of wood to fruit than a couple of other Paumanok Chardonnays I tasted. The finish is quite concentrated, with peach, apricot kernel, and pepper and herb notes. Massoud convincingly demonstrated the ability of his Grand Vintage Chardonnay to age spectacularly with his first, a 1995, so I am inclined to believe that this 2004 – in addition to experiencing some rapid post-bottling recovery, will also be worth socking away. Tel. (631) 722-8800