Moschioni Schioppettino, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

莫西奧尼酒莊司棋派蒂諾紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：3667

Moschioni’s 2007 Schiopettino flows with the essence of blackberry jam, grilled herbs, juniper berries, mint and exotic spices. This is a decidedly powerful, full-throttle style that seems to lack some of the finesse of the finest years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Davide Moschioni makes some of the richest reds in Friuli. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2006 Schioppettino is simply marvelous. This opulent, richly-textured wine flows onto the palate with waves of fruit, showing remarkable freshness and clarity. The 2006 possesses terrific inner sweetness in a beautifully balanced style, with waves of blackberries, licorice, grilled herbs and new leather that emerge with tons of definition. The wine can be enjoyed today with some aeration, but will be even better in a few years’ time. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025. This is a compelling set of wines from Davide Moschioni, a small artisan grower who continues to lead the way in demonstrating the level Friuli’s reds can reach. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

I was blown away by Moschioni’s 2004 Schiopettino. It opens with a super-ripe, sweet nose followed by a multitude of coffee bean, licorice, tar, cocoa, creme brulee and jammy fruit sensations. Endowed with stunning richness, opulence and purity, it is a remarkable wine in every way and sets a new benchmark for this quirky, indigenous grape. In 2004 100% of the grapes were dried for 23 days prior to being fermented, giving this wine a personality that combines aspects of Amarone-like richness wedded to an unmistakably Friulian character. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Michele Moschioni's tiny estate is located in Cividale. An afternoon spent in his cellar is a fascinating education in the purity of expression that Friuli's indigenous red varietals are capable of achieving in the hands of a serious, passionate producer. Moschioni credits Romano Dal Forno as an early inspiration for his wines. He is also very close to Gravner, Damijan and Zidarich, all small artisan producers who craft hand-made, natural wines. Moschioni favors late harvests which can stretch into mid-October or early November. Because fruit often struggles to ripen in this northerly microclimate, in some vintages Moschioni performs a slight drying or appassimento on a portion of his grapes. As Moschioni says, he likes fat wines and these are powerful, intense offerings with dry extract levels that are off the charts. The wines are fermented using only natural yeasts. For his top bottlings - Pignolo, Schiopettino and Rosso Real - Moschioni uses open-top wood fermenters without temperature control. The wines all do malolactic fermentation in French oak (Allier and Tron?ais, roughly 80% new) where they age for about two and a half years. The SO2 levels are minuscule and the wines see no fining or filtration prior to being bottled in accordance with the lunar phases. In short, these wines are among the most natural, unmanipulated wines readers will encounter from anywhere in the world. Consumers who want to understand the potential of indigenous varieties like Pignolo and Schiopettino owe it to themselves to check out the stunning wines of Michele Moschioni. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

From 100% Ribolla Nera grapes, the 2000 Schioppettino (200 cases) displays a hint of raisiny character in addition to what may be a touch of residual sugar in its flavor. I'm not really sure about the residual sugar because it is so ripe, with high levels of glycerin and alcohol (16% minimum). This massive, opaque purple-colored offering boasts an extraordinary nose of liquid minerals intermixed with blueberries, black currants, camphor, and melted licorice. It is the most amazing Schioppettino I have ever tasted. Only time will tell how it will age, but everything is there for what should be an intriguing and gracious evolution. No doubt it will be controversial as it is such an immense wine, but it is surprisingly well-balanced as well as seamless. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2015+? Importer: Dominic Nocerino, Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907