Made from a block in the estate vineyard, the Chardonnay shows classic Green Valley acidity and savory flavors of Key lime pie, stony minerals, Asian pears and pineapple brulee, with a rich coating of smoky oak. For all the opulence, it’s totally dry on the finish. Complex and compelling. Drink now–2013 for freshness and vitality.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 93